Seeing the world from a long-term pastor's perspective.
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The gilded dining room

I knew that the most opulent homes of late nineteenth century in America were built by the Vanderbilt’s, tycoons of the NY Central Railroad.   I did not realize how many homes they built, nor did I know that many of the homes had just one architect, Richard Morris Hunt.  They include The Breakers and the Marble House in Newport, Rhode Island and the Biltmore in Asheville North Carolina.  Years ago when I was stationed in Newport in the Navy we toured the Marble House.  Keely and JoAnne’s brother, Joe, have both recommended Biltmore.

Visiting The Breakers

Last Saturday, on a return visit to Newport, we toured The Breakers, summer home of Cornelius Vanderbilt.   The home is immense-65,000 sq. ft.  The magnificent first floor rooms are almost indescribable.  The supersized main dining room could alone be responsible for the term “gilded age” as so much of the ornate wall decorations, door casings, and ceiling are covered in gold leaf of varying thicknesses, washes, and degrees of polish.   My favorite rooms were the billiard room-the nineteenth century version of a “man-cave;” and the music room-just a gorgeous space to match the beauty of the sounds produced there.   Also extremely impressive were the technics used to vary the wall décor.   Various uses of metals, such as platinum, and leather, in addition to the gold leaf gave the walls very unusual textures. As the economic fortunes of the super-rich changed in the depression, the house actually was unused for a time. Now it is owned by the Newport Preservation Society  (http://www.newportmansions.org/).  

The People behind the House

I’m always interested in the personal side of the story.  The house was run by 40 staff—maids and butlers of various kinds who were under the leadership of Mrs. Vanderbilt. Many would have been newer immigrants.  In her bedroom which was also her office, was a row of call buttons to summon them. She also might be required to change clothes as many as seven times a day.  Interestingly, the family was very religious with Mr. Vanderbilt teaching Sunday School and the children restricted as to what entertainments they were allowed on Sunday.   Mr. Vanderbilt who built the house only enjoyed it in good health one summer as he had a stroke the following year. 

Luxury for show; verses to ponder

One cannot help but feel in visiting such a place that much of the luxury was over the top for the sake of ostentation.  This was definitely wealth on display.  The rich and powerful of the day met here and showed off their status by making wealth visible as people have done for centuries and still do.   On the one hand, a prayer such the Psalmist prays would have seemed natural to the Vanderbilt’s; “Wealth and honor come from you; you are the ruler of all things. In your hands are strength and power to exalt and give strength to all.  Now, our God, we give you thanks, and praise your glorious name” (1 Ch 29:12-13 NIV).

While one can understand the cultural history of how such a display of wealth came to be, one cannot help but feel that it was questionable Christian stewardship to put so much wealth into such extravagant exhibition. Those of us enjoying the perspective of a hundred years of history, think instead of other verses;  “All can see that wise men die; the foolish and the senseless alike perish and leave their wealth to others” (Ps 49:10 NIV);  or “Command those who are rich in this present world not to be arrogant nor to put their hope in wealth, which is so uncertain, but to put their hope in God, who richly provides us with everything for our enjoyment. Command them to do good, to be rich in good deeds, and to be generous and willing to share. In this way they will lay up treasure for themselves as a firm foundation for the coming age, so that they may take hold of the life that is truly life” (1 Ti 6:17-19 NIV).   

This railroad museum we didn’t just run into, but found on the maps and in the guidebook.   Near the end of our recent summer vacation, we decided to stop on our way back toward Seattle to see Snoqualmie Falls in WA (http://snoqualmiefalls.com/).   It is an impressive cataract, higher than Niagara.  The viewpoint park was under reconstruction so we could not quite see it to best advantage.  In addition, the water was lower in August, so it did not show the power it would have in the spring.   But it still was very impressive.

On our way out to the falls, there were two tracks of old railroad equipment collected by the museum there, including numerous engines.  So JoAnne hung out at the falls park while I returned to the train museum.  A few pieces had been restored.  Many others were awaiting attention.  One of the most unique engines, in my view, was parked in the back where it could not be seen very well.  It was a large tank engine.   One usually thinks of tank engines as being smaller.   However, the curator at the museum answered that in the West larger tank engines were not that uncommon. Near the museum grounds was an example of the logs that where originally cut there. As you can see from the picture, it was huge.   You would think it was a redwood but it was not, it was just a big spruce. 

The depot itself was impressive and very well preserved.  Behind it was an old building, originally a lodge building, currently holding a restaurant/bar.  It had been preserved too and was fascinating inside.  I had a glass of Snoqualmie Root Beer on-tap there.   There was a mount of a mountain lion in the corner and a chromed wood stove. The old bar still had water running in the trough spittoon at its base.    I could only imagine how gross it must have been when that was actually in use. 

JoAnne and I have been back from our vacation for almost a month already.  We’ve been extending the fun by enjoying all the pictures we took.   Love this digital age where you can take hundreds without paying a mint for film and developing; just click away, dump them onto the laptop each evening and go back out and fill the camera again.  In just a little over two weeks, JoAnne and I took about 1000 pictures.   So JoAnne has made up one slide show, a shorter one, and also a file of shots she wants to use for her painting hobby.   In addition to my blog galleries, I’ve chosen one for the desktop of each of my computers.

Needless to say, there are lots that have not surfaced here and won’t.  However, I thought you might like to see just a few more– a “Best of Glacier” selection.    I’ll try not to repeat shots form Logan pass or the animal article.  Glacier National Park was really the highpoint of our trip.  I was glad we traveled there last; I think it is best to save the highpoint (pardon the pun) until last.

 One of the fascinating sidelights of our visit to Glacier National Park was the ubiquitous red tour bus.   Since I was driving my own rented vehicle, I did not actually get to ride one, but we usually saw them parked with us at various points of interest.   One’s first impression when you see them is, “How do they dare run an antique vehicle up these mountains?”   Then you discover that they have been refurbished beautifully.   Even the interior work is excellent.  Ford Motor Company did the remodeling job.  They add a unique element to the park that somehow complements in time frame and style the grand lodges of the park which were completed in the early twentieth century.     This link is about riding in them.  http://glacierparkinc.com/tour_detail.php?id=1

They have become a cultural icon in themselves in the park.   The drivers are called “jammers” from the old days when the vehicles had manual transmissions rather than the automatics of today.   Even a local root beer is named for the buses.  I drank a bottled of it and peeled the label off for a souvenir.  

A modeling company (The Open Top Bus Company) has produced an O scale model of the 1936 White Tour bus # 706.  (White is the name of the company that made them, not the color.)  Being an O gauge railroad buff on the side, of course, I had to have one.   This link details the history of the vehicles.  http://www.fomentek.com/opentop_history.htm 

Everyone wants to see the animals when they go west, and we were no exception.      One warning, you never know when you will see them.   It might be in a park and it might not.    One of our most exceptional sightings on this trip happened along the journey.  We were just a little ways out of a small town cruising along in Idaho when we saw some cars parked by the side of the road and people looking at something—usually a good sign for travelers looking for animals.  When we went by, we saw why.   On the far side of the pond filled with water lilies were a mother moose and her calf contentedly munching.       I turned around and we went back and took their picture.   On another rural road we passed a fenced in herd of buffalo.    Other times the animals were more where you would expect, like the grizzlies in Glacier National Park.   The pictures below start with the smaller animals.

 When you go on a long travel vacation, you just can’t resist rating things sometimes.  You know–what did you like best?  Well, here’s a for-fun chart of some the best and worst moments.    Part of our blessings were that none of the worst moments were very bad as you can see.

 

The best

The worst

meal Gail and Sue Stater’s salmon dinner Truly extraordinary Leftover bagels for breakfast with no banana, but we ate.
restaurant meal Happy Garden Chinese in Wallowa, OR – steak and vegetables – very tasty, excellent service Applebee’s Asian Ribs, Kalispell, Montana.  – thin cut with little meat, cooked dry and charred.
hotel Shilo Inn, Moses Lake, WALarge clean room, great breakfast, good internet, convenient,  and medium priced Edgewater Inn,  OR, near Crater Lake, in spite of being expensive.Not well cleaned from the last party, very skimpy breakfast.
roads 70 miles per hr freeways in WA Hell’s Canyon switchbacks  without guardrails
views A very tough choice – I nominate Logan Pass, Montana by a hair over Hurricane Ridge, WA Mile after mile of dry sagebrush in eastern WA
surprise The height of the Crater Lake peak and the size and beauty of the lake The great scarcity of rooms available close to Glacier National Park on both sides.
Enjoyable driving Farming valleys of eastern OR, Idaho and Washington Seattle traffic as we came back into the city at rush hour.

I may be a little sore tomorrow, but what an exhilarating feeling.   It was too cold for JoAnne up at the Logan Pass Visitor Center.  The wind was blowing hard and the stormy gray sky was spitting occasional rain, snow or hail as clouds tumbled over the backbone of the continent, as the Native Americans call it.   I had on a warm Henley, a flannel shirt and a wind breaker and I could still feel the chill.   JoAnne stayed behind at the center while I pressed ahead up the stepped walk over the Alpine tundra, 1.5 miles, mostly up the mountain, then over the Continental Divide, to the overlook to Hidden Lake.  The flowers were blooming everywhere.  Near the top, picas were abundant.    Just as we neared the overlook, a young teen girl behind me screamed/squealed as only girls that age can, “A goat!”     There it was– a momma goat ahead of us and in the middle of the walkway with an offspring close behind.  What a treat.   She was nearly pure white with those little curved black horns.  All the hikers were so distracted by the goats that the view hardly got the attention it deserved.   And it deserved attention!  The beautiful boomerang shaped lake lay below us, surrounded by mountains on every side except in one small corner. In that corner was an endless vista facing west.    One of the surrounding mountains was a tall pointed one named after an Indian leader called “Bear Hat.”  Little picas were running around everywhere, rating a poor third to the goats and the scenery.  On the way back I also spied a tundra-loving white-crowned sparrow and a marmot.    The hike was rigorous for me.  I could feel the altitude and had to stop a couple times during the ascent.   Between the cold wind, the occasional hail and the long climb, I was tempted to turn back.   But I am so glad I did not.   The hike was a great climax to the trip, both literally and emotionally.  

Whenever we accomplish something difficult that requires pushing through difficulties, we can relate to the climbing metaphor.  The difficulty tempts one to turn back.  The obstacles must be faced with courage, determination and savvy.   There is often pain in the process.   But the view from the top is worth it all. The feeling of accomplishment is thrilling.   And whether we realize it or not, we are better prepared for future challenges.  This kind of thinking is often applied in Scripture to help us with life’s challenges too.  “Blessed are those who persevere under trial, because when they have stood the test, they will receive the crown of life that God has promised to those who love him” (Jas 1:12 TNIV).   Or consider the thought in Hebrews as the author explains the example of Christ.   “Let us throw off everything that hinders and the sin that so easily entangles, and let us run with perseverance the race marked out for us.  Let us fix our eyes on Jesus, the author and perfecter of our faith, who for the joy set before him endured the cross, scorning its shame, and sat down at the right hand of the throne of God” (Heb 12:1-2 NIV).

We have just felt so blessed on our trip west.   So I decided to make a list of some of the special blessings we have noted.   The messianic blessing promised to Israel and received also by the church is pronounced in Isaiah 65:23 (NIV),  “They will be a people blessed by the Lord!”   We have certainly felt His care and provision on this vacation.   Here’s a small list to celebrate the last Sunday of our vacation.

  • It was a special joy to connect with loved ones on the West coast.   At the beginning of our trip, we so enjoyed our stay with our son-in-law’s parents in Eugene, OR.  We had not seen them since the wedding.   We were also happy to meet Mark’s brother, Bill and his wife Fatima for the first time.     Then at the end of our trip we had the privilege of seeing our nephew’s wife, Kim and their son, Lincoln, who is not quite 2, in Seattle, WA .                 
  • We sighted so many animals on this trip including elk, moose, black bear, grizzly bear, pica, prairie dog, ground squirrel, marmot, mule deer, and mountain goat. I’ll be blogging more about this.
  • We had unusually good weather – very few clouds on our trips to places that usually have clouds like Olympic National Park and Mt St. Helens.  We had almost no rain at all. 
  • We found safety while driving about 3100 miles in a little cherry red Nissan Versa the trunk of which surprising swallowed our large suitcases perfectly.   We had a couple close calls on the road, but God rescued us.
  • We worshipped on August 15 with Staters and it was communion Sunday at their church.   It is special refreshment for me to be able to receive communion while on vacation.
  • We were able to find places to stay that were quite nice.   The first night at Glacier was a little problematic because there was a state fair in Kalispell. Montana.    But we ended up at an East Glacier guest house, the most luxurious housing of the trip.  It was only available because the person renting it missed a plane for that evening. 
  • We repeatedly commented how much we enjoyed traveling together.  We work together while we travel.  JoAnne plans, reads tour books and maps and navigates.   I drive, handle luggage, and make choices that she hasn’t already figured out.  For us, it was a joy to be away from our routine, away from our responsibilities,  and doing something we love for vacation – seeing national parks.   It is a great way to celebrate our 40th summer together as a married couple.

We had stopped to get gas in the middle of nowhere.   As I pumped gas, I looked to the left of the station and noticed a small railroad station and yard, only a couple tracks and a sideline or two.  But they looked like they might belong to a branch line or a tourist railroad.   So I walked up the street and checked it out.   The pictures show what I found.    It was obviously rather rural as the mule deer ate right beside the tracks.    I found a couple websites for it too.   http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4alxKVJ4eVk  and http://www.trainweb.org/rosters/WURR.html.

Let’s just say that we figured out why they call it Hell’s Canyon.    Getting down in and back up the other side, even one branch of it took hours and involved the scariest driving in all of our Northwest adventures.     The switchbacks came one after another, stacked one above the other in tiers.   I downshifted the Nissan into second and at one point into first.   About then a double –yes double– grain tractor-trailer came roaring up the switchbacks – what would happen if you met him on some of the sharpest, blindest corners, I don’t even want to speculate.  I can’t imagine why doubles are allowed on this road!!   Did I mention that there were few guardrails or stone barriers?  The area is very arid yet the steep mountainsides are range land and we actually saw cattle on them.    I don’t know how the beef cows have any energy left to grow after all it would take to move around the canyon sides.   There were fences too, but the ranchers must have had climbing gear to build them.  We really didn’t get all the way down to the Snake River which forms the very bottom of the canyon; we crossed a tributary river called Grande Ronde.  

Before we began the drive down, we drove to one of the overlooks to view the scenery.   The area is very remote and getting to the overlook involved a  40 mile country drive one way.   It was our first experience at seeing the slippery metal cattle crossing grates across the main roads, an experience we would repeat many times.   Every mountain stream and river looked like a super-sized version of a Pennsylvania trout stream—pure clear water, often with that greenish cast of a spring run-off.  The canyon itself is vast in its scope and depth.    It is definitely grand enough to invite comparisons with the Grand Canyon itself.   There are few canyons in that league.  This one was much more complex in structure if that is possible; involving a large number of tributary canyons.  It did not have such precipitous sides as our experience of the South side of the Grand Canyon.   The rock here is much more eroded and has some sparse evergreen covering.     We spent some quiet time at the overlook while JoAnne sketched and I observed the flowers, scanned the canyon, and watched for birds with my binoculars.